Oct 28, 2024

Historic first ascent of Phungi in the Himalayas
Members of the Rikkyo University Alpine Club take part in the expedition

Keyword:INFORMATION

OBJECTIVE.

Captain Masahiro Nakazawa and Vice Captain Fumiya Yokomichi of Rikkyo University Athletic Association’s Alpine Club were part of the Phungi student expedition team affiliated with the Japan Alpine Club (JAC), which successfully completed the first ascent of Phungi in the Himalayas on October 12, 2024. Both Nakazawa and Yokomichi are fourth-year students in the Department of International Business Law at the College of Law and Politics.

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The five-member team consists of two students from Rikkyo University, one from Aoyama Gakuin University, one from Chuo University, and one from the University of Tokyo. These students are leaders in their respective alpine clubs, which belong to the Japan Alpine Club (JAC). They met at the JAC's student club and later came up with a plan to climb 6,524-meter Phungi, an unclimbed mountain in Nepal. Nakazawa was in charge of equipment, while Yokomichi handled external relations, accounting, and recording.

The second attempt to conquer the peak

The expedition team departed Japan on September 5 for Kathmandu, the capital of Nepal. When they arrived, they headed by car to a small village called Meta (3,560 meters). They spent several days trekking from Meta to Kyang (3,800 meters) and Phugaon (4,100 meters) to acclimatize themselves to the high altitude. On September 21, the team established a base camp at an altitude of 4,700 meters. They then traversed a valley flanked by steep cliffs and set up a high camp, which served as the final base, at a height of 6,200 meters on October 4. The following day, the team attempted their first ascent of the peak from the high camp, but they were hindered by a steep cliff. After better preparing for the challenge, all the team members successfully ascended the peak on their second attempt on October 12.

Previous attempts to achieve the first ascent of Phungi by the JAC and other groups had ended in failure. The peak had previously not been climbed by anyone, making this student expedition the first successful ascent in history.

The expedition team is scheduled to return to Japan on November 11.

*Video and photos provided by the Phungi Student Expedition Team of the JAC.

Comment

Left: Nakazawa, Right: Yokomichi

Masahiro Nakazawa (Fourth-year student at the Department of International Business Law, the College of Law and Politics)

We formed a five-member team consisting of members from our alpine club and those at other universities to successfully climb the 6,524-meter Phungi, an unclimbed mountain.

The Rikkyo University Alpine Club has a history of taking on the challenge of climbing numerous Himalayan mountains, including the first successful ascent of a Himalayan peak by a Japanese team.

Reflecting on the club's history, I developed a desire to climb an unclimbed mountain in the Himalayas someday.

With this ambitious goal in mind, the Alpine Club engaged in various forms of mountaineering throughout a year to gain experience. As members of the expedition team, we underwent extensive training, participated in climbing sessions, and met regularly to make meticulous preparations.

It took us about a month to reach the peak after leaving Japan, but we remained patient. We made sure to take enough time to acclimatize to the high altitude and carefully establish the route to the summit.

We faced numerous challenges, including navigating an unexpected crevasse zone and a knife-edge ridge that required precise climbing skills. However, we overcame all obstacles, and I am very happy that all team members reached the summit safely.
I would like to share my experiences from the expedition with junior members of the club and will do my best to support its further development.

I would like to extend my deepest gratitude to the former members of the Alpine Club and to the people at the JAC who provided invaluable support and cooperation.

Fumiya Yokomichi (Fourth-year student at the Department of International Business Law, College of Law and Politics)

We managed to take one step after another toward the peak, despite feeling exhausted from altitude sickness, and finally conquered it.

Surrounded by awe-inspiring, beautiful scenery, I felt a sense of joy at that moment; however, I experienced a rush of emotions about the ascent the day after returning to the base camp, as what we had achieved seemed almost surreal.

When I joined the Athletic Association Alpine Club four years ago, I vaguely dreamed of someday climbing an unclimbed mountain, but I never imagined that I would actually realize that dream.

During my middle and high school years, I led a life unrelated to sports, so I was unsure if I could keep up with the club’s activities.

We were able to make the first ascent thanks not only to the passion for the mountains shared by all members of the team, but also to the support of great comrades, former members of the Alpine Club, and people from the JAC, without whose support we could not have achieved what we did. I would like to extend my deepest gratitude to them on this occasion. We were also fortunate to have good weather conditions.

Due to the nature of its activities, the Alpine Club is not as visible compared to other clubs within the Athletic Association. However, it would be gratifying if our accomplishment were to draw more attention to our activities.

Yokomichi climbs a steep rocky mountain.

Yokomichi, front left, and Nakazawa, front right, with other expedition members

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